Friday, January 22, 2010
My Left Foot: Bipedalism Revisited
Wednesday, December 2, 2009
The Island of Knowledge

Pine Butte in the Evening. Photo by Simon Williams
Sitting atop Guthrie Ridge, staring at Pine Butte over a mile away leaves one with the unambiguous feeling that the sandstone object rising from the ocean of prairie is an island. A blanket of Limber Pine that shrouds its top adds to the effect. The pines owe their existence to the higher elevation of the butte, which translates into more annual moisture than on the grass below...which enables the place to support tree growth. In fact, it is one of the few such formations along the Front that hosts a robust population of pines. The classic definition of an island is a body of land completely surrounded by water. There are however, other kinds to consider; islands of habitat for example. In this case, the butte is an island of Savannah habitat in a sea of Intermountain Grassland. For conservationists, this idea is discussed in terms of human disturbance; the "sea" is human-degraded land and the "island" is relatively healthy habitat. The science known as Island Biogeography was developed in the 1960's by ecologists E.O. Wilson and Robert MacArthur. It along with the study of Conservation Biology, is the basis for how many lands are conserved and managed today.
From this perspective, the healthiest habitats are usually those that are unfragmented and "linked" by corridors to other habitats. When these islands shrink and become isolated, ecological integrity often declines and species disappear. Habitat islands can be viewed on many scales; Manhattan's Central Park is on one end of the spectrum. The 10 million-acre Crown of the Continent ecosystem, of which the Rocky Mountain Front is a part, is on another and Antarctica is another still. The creation of these habitat islands on Earth is a relatively new phenomenon; it really wasn't very long ago when the reverse was true, that is, civilizations were islands in "oceans" of relatively wild landscapes. Of course, many people today tend to value these habitat islands not only for their biological attributes, but also as refuges for our sanity.
In human culture, islands of one sort or another have been viewed as joyful paradises of recreation like Hawaii, or remote, isolated places unfit for people. Some have been considered sacred; Patmos Island in Greece, is home to the Monastery of St. John the Divine, where the disciple reportedly experienced revelation in the Cave of the Apocalypse. For Northwest Coast tribes, some islands hold special meaning as vision quest sites or burial grounds. In modern civilization, places like Alcatraz or Three Mile Island bring different images to mind.
Pine Butte's isolation on the grassland is as striking as it is haunting. It is the mantelpiece of the surrounding 18,000-acre Preserve, an area with remarkable biological and aesthetic values, one which has special significance to me. I've walked up that butte hundreds of times and have experienced just about every one of its moods; beautiful and calm, rain, snow, howling wind. And it has never ceased to surprise me by the appearance of an unusual plant species, a strange rock formation, an improbable bit of animal sign. The comprehensive study of Natural History and ecology here is a Sisyphean task: even continual, sustained field time and book-learning of flora, fauna, geology, all of it, can sometimes leave one with a feeling of great inadequacy. In fact, there seems to be a proportional relationship going on. That is, the more this place is studied, the more elusive it becomes.
Albert Einstein is quoted as saying, "As our circle of knowledge expands, so does the circumference of darkness surrounding it." And this brings us to yet another island. What Einstein was implying is not only the realization that as knowledge is accumulated, there is a corresponding realization of an infinite unknown, but also that one should draw from this a profound sense of humility. It is a concise statement about not confusing knowledge with wisdom. And it seems to say, "In all things, proceed with caution."
For a few years now, I've been giving our visitors at the guest ranch a slightly different version of this idea: "The larger the island of knowledge, the longer the shoreline of ignorance". It's a great line, very handy for those teachable moments in the field. Unfortunately, I've been mis-quoting it; the actual words, by American geographer Ralph W. Stockman are slightly different. "The larger the island of knowledge," he says, "the longer the shoreline of wonder." I think that pretty much nails it.
Friday, November 20, 2009
The Ecology of Wind
The movement of air, born of Earth's perpetual cycles of heating and cooling, is what we know and experience as Wind. This invisible force of Nature is globally present and its effects on our planet are both subtle and profound. On the largest scale, wind directly affects climate and weather; the Gulf Stream, that Atlantic "river" of warm water flowing from the Caribbean to northern Europe, is set into motion by wind action. One of the results of this is that climate patterns on much of the Continent (the Mediterranean, British Isles, etc.) are ridiculously mild, especially given their northern latitudes. Powerful Trade Winds that scour the great deserts of Africa send enormous quantities of particulate westward, across the Atlantic which can block insolation from the sun, sometimes cooling areas in North America.
Recent studies strongly suggest that bacteria, which are transported into the atmosphere by Earth's winds, serve as the bulk of nucleation (condensation) sites for precipitation; that is, about 80% of the material that must be present for it to rain or snow anywhere on the planet is biological, and this stuff can only get where it needs to be by the grace of wind. On the Rocky Mountain Front, the effects of wind are always at hand. It, along with fire and precipitation, is the most influential force of change on the landscape. For much of the year, as air masses move from west to east, over the mountains and toward the prairie, they are funneled through our canyons. When a gas or liquid is forced through a constriction, it rapidly accelerates. This is called the Venturi effect and it is pronounced along the Front.
Where it is not anchored by grasses or other vegetation, wind will move significant quantities of soil across the land. A particle will travel until it finds a protected area such as a gully or the lee side of a hill and come to rest. The same thing happens with snow; the rare winter visitor will notice that a uniform blanket of snowfall doesn't stick around for very long on the prairie. (And this is a major boon for grazing animals who need exposed grasslands to survive.) Once wind becomes sustained, the white stuff will blow about and form very large drifts, often in the same locations where soil accumulates. These soil and snow deposition zones are important ecologically, since deeper soils and extra water over time translates in to more lush vegetation and therefore greater species diversity.
Plants and animals that live here must adapt to our frequent and often intense winds. A windy environment is very hard on native flora. The desiccating effects of wind can create near-desert conditions and cause outright physical damage to plants. Probably the most iconic example of a wind-adapted species on the Front is the Limber Pine (Pinus flexilis), for which the Pine Butte Swamp Preserve is named. This tree pumps a great deal of resin into its extremities, which gives it exceptional pliability. Since the needle-bearing limbs are the photosynthetic engine of the organism, it is critical that they be able to bend (and not break) when the gusts come. We should also note that it is the persistent, invisible hand of the wind that sculpts Limber Pine into the lovely, Bonsai-form it takes in these parts. While wind can be a hindrance to plant growth, it can also assure the continuity of many species. There may be hundreds of plants in the Northern Rockies which have adapted their pollen and seed dispersal strategies with the wind; an incalculable vector for genetic exchange and dissemination for sure.
The effects of high wind on fauna is noticeable; typically we are not able to observe much wildlife on a windy day, probably because it negatively affects the senses of hearing and smell which animals rely upon far more than we do. Usually the larger creatures (bears, elk, moose, deer) stay bedded down or otherwise remain close to cover on windy days. People too, have a general disdain for wind past a certain threshold. For the hunter, wind can camouflage the sounds one might make crawling through brush, but it can also make it impossible to hear the object of one's pursuit. Wind has played a significant role in human culture and civilization; it has affected the outcome of wars, powered mills, driven wildland fires and enabled the exploration of the world by sea. Today, Montana is witnessing a huge push to develop our wind resources for energy. While wind power will play an important role in the shift away from dependence on fossil fuels, if done improperly, it could have significant ecological impacts to grasslands, rare birds and bats.
Tuesday, October 27, 2009
Hunting For Meaning

The human strategy for dealing with winter mostly falls into the food-storage catagory. Thus, as the seasonal change progresses, many Montanans are engaging in the yearly ritual of hunting big game, particularly deer and elk. Our state has the highest per-capita number of hunters of any, including Alaska. To a rural community like Choteau, this translates into some very real economic impacts; outfitters, sporting goods stores, game processors, motels and others, directly benefit from the influx of hunters.
Men and women choose to hunt for many reasons. Some are as basic as putting healthy, organic meat in the freezer to feed the family for another year. The simple joy of being out in the autumn landscape with friends and loved ones is often cited as one of the greatest pleasures in life for Montana hunters. Others may find active participation in the Food Web to be important, since we are mostly uninvolved with the production or harvest of our sustenance in modern society. For many, the act of killing an animal to sustain their own body is a deeply humbling, spiritual task that vividly reminds us of life's preciousness...and of our own mortality.
For this hunter, all of the above reasons are what motivate me to partake in the chase. Whatever our ancestry, if we go back far enough, we find that humans are a species that has hunted to live, and lived to hunt. Most of our evolutionary time on planet earth (about 98% of it) has been in pursuit of game. While some are uncomfortable with the idea of killing animals for any reason in today's world, hunting does represent an unbroken chain of connectivity with our ancestors and fellow hunters such as bears, lions and wolves to name a few. For me, the pursuit forces me to examine my ethics in the most real way. How and why I do this is critical and I constantly reexamine the reasons. In traditional hunting cultures for example, it is recognized that no pleasure is ever taken in ending an animal's life and sincere thanks must be given for the profound gift that the hunter recieves. It is a moral code worth following.
While most people don't hunt in the modern world as we did in the past, the impulse to seek, that is, to hunt, is irrepressible. The endless pursuit of knowledge, success, love, wisdom and meaning is universal among our kind. And speaking for myself, actually being out there hunting, (which in Montana means the possibility of also being hunted by fellow carnivores) is the most tactile, visceral way to engage in the Great Round of Life.
When early November comes, I'll be out on the Pine Butte Preserve stalking whitetails and thinking many thoughts. And I'll do my best to be there with pure intentions, in a good way.
Wednesday, October 14, 2009
Sacred Geography

There are transitions going on in the human community too. Ranchers have been shipping cattle to distant markets and hunters have begun to comb the landscape for game. Of course, children have returned to school. Fall is a prelude to the deeply introspective winter season, which is just around the corner. If you have visited the Guest Ranch before, you know it sits within a bigger landscape that is overwhelmingly beautiful and wild. The Northern Prairies abruptly collide with the Rocky Mountains here, with spectacular ecological and aesthetic results.
I've watched this place, the Rocky Mountain Front, bring people to tears many times. All cultures have in their religious traditions a concept of "Sacred Geography"; that is, places that are especially potent in a spiritual sense. In our deep past, we recognized particular caverns, mountains, springs and other natural features which spoke of "something else"; places which seemed to unify heaven and earth, where a sense of divinity is tangible. We know that there are many such places for Blackfeet people in the area; Ear Mountain is but one in a landscape overflowing with these spots.
The function of sacred places is to re-center the self, to find purpose to find meaning and to heal. In my short time as Naturalist at Pine Butte, I have noticed a near universal recognition of the Front as a Sacred Geography by our guests and others. Places like this, nearly complete ecologically and which invoke the divine for many, are rare in our world today. As important as conserving species and ecosystem processes is, we should also recognize the tremendous value this landscape has to the human spirit.
Pine Butte Guest Ranch is cradled in the canyon of the South Fork Teton and has acted as a gateway for visitors to the Front since 1930. People come from great distances to visit, and many return again and again . Now I think I know why.
Monday, September 7, 2009
Wolves in Montana: The need for the hunt
The upcoming wolf hunting season in Montana, which begins in the backcountry on September 15th, will be the first ever "Fair Chase", regulated season on this important carnivore in our state's history. A quota of 75 animals has been set by the Montana Department of Fish Wildlife & Parks.
Wednesday, July 1, 2009
Wilderness Zen

“To learn about the pine,
go to the pine.
To learn about the bamboo,
go to the bamboo.”
-Basho, 17th Century
Proficiency in the wilderness arts is important for hunters and other backcountry travelers. But we should also have an overall set of guiding principals when interacting with the land we hunt in. A discipline I call “Wilderness Zen” is a philosophic but practical approach to wilderness travel where the individual embodies quiet confidence, heightened awareness and consciously interacts towards the land with humility. This is not hippy mysticism, but a way of being that has allowed our kind to thrive in wilderness environments for a very long time.
I can't tell you how many times I've seen people listening to iPods while they travel in grizzly country. They’re ill-equipped for wilderness travel (sometimes with just a .357 or a water bottle) are generally oblivious and seem to have the attitude that they are immune to mishap. Perhaps they expect a cell phone will bail them out. This is only one kind of backcountry klutz that I have no patience for, who does everything wrong and who is diametrically opposed to the “Wilderness Zen”-approach. Folks like this are a danger to themselves and others. Below are the core values and concepts we should seek to practice when we head far afield.
The Land is the Boss. We shouldn’t be afraid about a short walk in the woods becoming a survival situation, but we should take longer trips seriously, especially day-hunts. A universal among traditional hunting cultures is that they recognize the wilderness “holds the cards”, and therefore demands respect and humility. Though it doesn’t usually happen, the land can kick your butt at any time, for no apparent reason. It is way bigger than you. Don’t forget it.
Set your safety net. Let someone know where you are going, when you expect to return and what to do if you are late in perfectly clear terms.
Know yourself. Be honest about your cardiovascular health and physical limitations. Do you have an old injury that might act up on a backcountry trip? How do you behave when stressed, tired, hungry and possibly lost? Are you quick to anger, or do you roll with adversity and act to improve things in a positive way? Don’t blame yourself needlessly for mistakes; get over it and act intelligently to turn things around.
Seek quality and order. Your equipment should be the best you can afford, from reputable manufacturers and be time-tested. Unfortunately, most of the stuff advertised as “quality outdoor gear” today is garbage. Stick to the basics: when it comes to technology that may be enlisted to save your skin, (clothing, tools, cord, firestarting materials, shelter, sleeping gear, etc.) know what you are buying, practice regularly and keep in good working order. Inspect often and replace or repair as needed. In the backcountry, you should know where every piece of equipment is at all times and keep a Spartan camp, with everything in its place. Disorder is for the lazy and careless.
Learn the land. Short but frequent exploratory trips in your hunting area will allow you to build topographic and ecological knowledge quicker and more completely than one big trip a year. If something does go wrong on a short excursion, the consequences are generally less severe due to distance from the trailhead. You should be able to use a map and compass with confidence, even if you prefer a GPS. Simple technology is more reliable in the wild. Practice route finding in a familiar area and understand some basic barehanded navigation practices: i.e., the position of the sun, location of Polaris and which direction ridges and streams trend. Develop a love for the study of maps (Topophilia) as a year-round pastime.
Be conservative. Foster a “sixth sense” for danger. Before a sketchy situation begins to unfold, stop and think, “what could go wrong here and how should I respond?” In the bush, your mind should be clear and alert. Always be sensitive to the possibility of mishap when doing something as simple as handling a sharp knife or as complex as route finding across miles of tailless terrain. Correct your mistakes before they become dangerous. Situations, like having to buck and split wood by headlamp each night should tell you that something is wrong with your planning and use of time. Understand the practice of caution and avoidance. You are the biggest threat to your own safety. Listen to your instincts; they are often correct.
Engage all senses. Quiet, slow travel is essential for good hunting. It also allows us to take in more visual, aural and scent information. Slow walking is a kind of moving meditation that can clear the mind and body of tension allowing us to focus more intently on our surroundings. Realize that we are animals with purpose who belong in the wild, just like the prey we are stalking.
Adapt. Hunters face hazards that differ from those of other wilderness users. We handle potentially dangerous tools and firearms, frequently travel off-trail and tend to recreate in what can be a precarious “shoulder” season, autumn. One particular issue worth mentioning is dealing with a large animal on the ground, miles from camp. Sometimes hunters take unnecessary risks by pulling the trigger when they are overextended. This could result in an unplanned night out in the woods, spoiled game, or worse. Be sure you have the time and means to deal with your kill in a safe manner before taking the shot. Have an adaptable plan.
Embrace training. Study the wilderness arts and make them part of your recreation. The key is to practice relevant skills with attention to detail. Most books on the subject of bushcraft are terrible, but there are some gems out there. The same goes for instruction. Seek out quality teachers who know the skills, natural history and lore of the environment that you to travel in most frequently. It doesn’t make sense to study desert survival if you mostly recreate in the Northern Rockies or the Boreal Forest.
Give thanks. Wild country is a blessing. Respect it and the beings that live there. Also, wilderness should not be irrationally feared; consider it your home and act to conserve and protect it in every way you can. Travel safely and return to educate others about the importance of hunting, natural beauty and our wildland heritage. Practice Wilderness Zen.
A version of this piece appeared in Backcountry Journal and Minnesota Whitetails in 2007 and 2008 respectively.
